There are days when visitors to this exquisite jewel box of a city outnumber locals two-to-one, and when getting from the station to St Mark's square is a battle. But despite this, Venice never loses its capacity to enchant: stepping out of the station to be greeted by a glittering canal with the dome of San Simeon Piccolo beyond remains heart-stopping, whether you're doing it for the first time or the 100th.
Even at peak visitor periods, the worst excesses can be avoided and you're never more than a bridge away from secluded Venice with its quiet campi (squares), churches concealing luminous Madonnas, handsome Gothic palazzi – and bustling neighbourhood hangouts.
Because there's more to Venice than peerless artistic riches from centuries past: it's also a hive of contemporary activity. Beyond the alternating Art and Architecture Biennale shows which showcase all that's cutting edge internationally, the city's dwindling population works hard to keep contemporary Venice creative, productive and very vibrant.
Explore our interactive map below for all the local highlights, and scroll down for our suggested day-by-day summary of the best things to see and do... while here are more Venice guides providing inspiration for hotels, restaurants, nightlife, shopping, attractions and free things to do.
Day one
Morning
Start the day in Da Bonifacio, a tiny café with a lovely crazy-paving mosaic floor, hidden away behind the Doge's Palace (Castello 4237, calle degli Albanesi; closed Thurs). The coffee's good – ask for the very Venetian macchiatone if you like the idea of a cappuccino with less milk – and it's difficult to resist cakes like the pasta con le mandorle (almond slice).